The Nagano village that modernity forgot

The Japan Times: There is no hot water in Odairajuku, no gas-powered stoves, no fridges and — most importantly — no internet. The nearest supermarket is an hour away by car, and so is the nearest place to get a signal on your phone. But what this tiny village in southern Nagano Prefecture does offer is something that’s becoming more difficult to find in Japan: a complete escape from modern life.
I first came here almost a decade ago, while living in another small Nagano village. My friends and I would visit in summer to escape the stifling heat and, since moving to Tokyo, I’ve made a point of returning every couple of years.
I come here to unplug from the stresses of life in a big city. There’s something relaxing about preparing food over an open fire, with humming cicadas and a gurgling stream in the background.But Odairajuku wasn’t always so quiet. In the Edo Period (1603-1868), travelers from all walks of life — samurai, merchants, pilgrims and lords with their clans — passed through this area as they journeyed along the Nakasendo, a 533-kilometer inland route that connected the cities of Kyoto and Edo (present-day Tokyo).
A total of 69 stations were dotted along the route, providing food and lodging to weary travelers. And although Odairajuku wasn’t officially one of those towns — like the more well-known villages of Tsumago and Magome — it still benefited from its proximity to the old highway.
As Japan modernized in the early 20th century, the village’s distance from cities such as Tokyo, Niigata and Kyoto meant it was slowly forgotten about. Abandoned after World War II, it sat in ruins until the workers at a local NPO, Odaira, began reviving the village’s 12 decaying buildings. Thanks to their efforts the village is open once again to travelers passing through Nagano’s Kiso mountains. Holes in roofs may have been filled, foundations may have been fixed and chimneys replaced, but little has changed here in the past century. Evidence of Odairajuku’s former life can be seen in the disused school and Shinto shrine that is slowly being reclaimed by nature.
There is little inside the lodgings except an irori (open hearth) to cook your food over, a traditional kamado rice cooker, which can be heated with a wood fire, and tatami straw mats to sleep on. Electric power cables have been installed for a few overhead lamps.